Day 6

Antü

Today we celebrate We Tripantu. We wake up early to the sound of the rain battering the sheet-metal roof. Despite the rain, it seems clear that the celebrations would not be postponed. We are taken to the top of a hill, where a few families have already begun to set up camp with wooden shelters. We are told that this is the place where the people of the Puerto Saavedra community have always celebrated We Tripantu. From the hill, we have a majestic view of the Pacific, and the lagoon which was formed in 1960, following the strongest earthquake ever recorded with modern instruments.

Taking part in the celebrations with the community was a unique experience. I felt moved by the authenticity of the event, and how important this day truly was to the Mapuche. Large branches were tied upright, and the participants formed three rows, facing the community leaders, the eldest, the healer, and some of the other key members. Music began, first with the beat of the drums, and then with the trutruka and the pifilka. We all danced around the branches to the music. Afterwards, the community leaders addressed the community. They thanked all the community for coming and braving the harsh weather, and reminded all those present of the importance of this day. One man said that on this day of We tripantu, he felt ashamed, more than ever, that he did not speak Mapuzungun, the language of his ancestors, the language of his people. It struck me how proud some of the community members were when our host praised their Mapuzungun. On this day of celebration, I thought of the pain that some of the community members must have felt, being so close to the culture and the rituals of their ancestors, but at the same time completely cut off from their history, having forgotten their own language. For Jacqueline, any process of cultural revitalisation must have language at its core. I see great truth in this. Languages are often compared to living organisms. The health of a language, and that of the people that speak it, go hand in hand. As long those celebrating We Tripantu greet their friends and family with 'Mari mari! kom pu che', the Mapuche culture will live on.

After the celebrations, the weather cleared up and we left for the sea, and managed to catch the last rays of the sun.